“There is no limit, life is so short that you can’t waste even a day subscribing to what someone thinks you can do versus knowing what you can do.”
Those were Virgil Abloh’s final words to the audience at Louis Vuitton’s Spring/Summer 2022 Menswear show, which took place in Miami just two days after the designer’s death, age 41.
His final collection, announced days before he died, was aptly titled “Virgil Was Here”. Louis Vuitton’s Chairman and CEO Michael Burke said it was Abloh’s wish that the show go on without him.
“He was an eternal optimist who believed anything was possible,” Burke said in a statement. “In this same spirit, we at Louis Vuitton will proudly continue to celebrate his legacy with a final show in Miami, per his wishes.”
Abloh’s absence was felt, but his spirit was woven into every single aspect of the show.
The set was reminiscent of Abloh’s previous shows held in Paris, with a tree-lined runway a clear visual nod to the Champs-Élysées.
The show started with Abloh’s voice reverberating through the crowd: “I’ve been on this focus in terms of my art and creativity of getting adults to behave like children again. That they go back into this sense of wonderment. They start to stop using their mind and they start using their imagination.”
The collection itself was a prolific display of Abloh’s legacy; particularly diverse representation, colourful recontextualization of legacy codes, infusion of streetwear and a Black designer’s take on French couture.
Models, including Abloh’s long-time friend Kid Cudi, somberly walked the runway, while a mix of classic ‘Virgil’ tracks and new-wave electronic beats provided the perfect soundtrack.
This was an Abloh collection to a tee, fitting for his magnum opus.
References to his longstanding cultural impact were seen in graffiti motifs adorning varsity jackets, flat brimmed hats styled with conventional suiting, and deconstructed hoodies.
Even a rogue skateboard made an appearance.
He also references his contemporaries, with nods to Kim Jones’ recent collaboration with Peter Doig for Dior Homme in the form of exaggerated hats, as well as Nicolas Ghesquiere’s SS/22 women’s show via his psychedelic skirting paired with basketball jerseys.
But Abloh also stayed true to Louis Vuitton’s traditions, with the classic damier pattern featured towards the end of the collection and berets reinvented for a new era.
As the show drew to a close, the crowd burst with applause, giving the late designer a well deserved standing ovation.
Where Abloh would typically thank the audience during the finale, a crowd of Louis Vuitton designers (all wearing matching shirts) wiped away tears as they took to the runway to pay tribute to their leader, mentor and friend.
The show ended, but Abloh’s legacy lived on.
Following the proceedings, the hot air balloon ascended to reveal a grand display of fireworks illuminating the sky.
Virgil was certainly here, and he will be greatly missed.
Keep scrolling below for our favourite looks from the collection.
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