Just before the world went into lockdown, much-loved luxe fashion label, Zimmermann, launched their fall collection to a rapturous reception at New York Fashion Week. In a marie claire exclusive, designer Nicky Zimmermann granted us behind-the-scenes access to the mayhem and the magic.
Good Omens
“We launched our fall 2020 collection at New York Fashion Week in February. The collection is called Ladybeetle and it’s a joyful take on lucky charms, like ladybeetles, horseshoes and rainbows.
I grew up with a fairly superstitious grandmother who taught me not to walk under ladders, to avoid black cats and to knock on wood if I said something pessimistic. As a kid, I remember being obsessed with finding a four-leaf clover [and getting] on my hands and knees searching the grass at home. I’m still looking for one. To me, lucky charms are hopeful and beautiful. They’re weaved into this collection with secret motifs, embroidery and sequins to spark a sense of fun.”
Material World
“More than six months of work goes into an eight-minute fashion week show. So much time and thought is put into every ruffle on every garment. We want women to connect emotionally with our pieces, so they’re incredibly detailed, with interesting silhouettes and rich textures like velvet, silk, wool and sequins. This word-print dress [middle] was unique to the collection and quite different from anything we’ve done before. We like to push ourselves designwise to create really beautiful, feminine and pretty pieces that make women feel good.”
Backstage Pass
“Fashion shows are hectic and busy, but the energy behind the scenes at our NYFW show was relaxed, calm and extremely organised. We’ve been doing this a long time [nearly 30 years] and we’ve worked with a lot of the models [including Carolyn Murphy, left, and Candice Swanepoel, right; with designer Nicky, middle], so they’re like friends.”
In the Mood
“You always want people to walk out of a fashion week show feeling like they can’t wait for the collection to drop. We try to connect with and uplift the audience, and this show certainly had a fun and enjoyable vibe. That’s all we hope for.”
Finishing Touches
“From a statement sleeve to a Victorian bow tied around the neck [left] and crafty sequins [right], Zimmermann is all about the details. Call me selfish, but it’s what I love doing: special details and personal touches.”
Model Moment
“Julia Stegner opened our NYFW show in one of my favourite looks – this mixed-print ruffle dress with a gold trim. I love how our stylist Romy Frydman styled this piece with a hat, wrap belt and velvet boots. Seeing a look come together is really special. When the models finish their final walk, they’re filled with adrenaline and exuberance – it’s the best moment.”
After the Party is the Afterparty
“After a fashion week show, we always go for a beautiful team lunch. It’s an opportunity for us to run through the show and for me to thank the team because they all contribute a huge amount to every single piece. Then, of course, we have a big party that night with our international staff to celebrate the moment.”
Photography by Sonny Vandevelde; Go Runway/Snapper Images; courtesy of Zimmermann.
Now, more than ever, we need to support the Australian fashion industry doing it tough in the wake of the COVID-19 crisis. We’re proud to get behind the #WeWearAustralian campaign, cheering on our favourite local labels.
This article originally appeared in the June 2020 issue of marie claire.
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