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How To Choose Your First Wear-Forever Watch

Including the horological terminology you need to know
Woman modelling a Omega luxury watchOmega

Diamonds might be a girlโ€™s best friend, but a watch could well be her best investment. In 2024, the allure of scrambling for our phones to check the time has waned (letโ€™s be honest, itโ€™s never been a chic moment). and weโ€™re increasingly turning to watches as the accessory du jour.

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What lies in the appeal of the watch? Unlike the simple bracelet, a watch is an elegant accessory that subtly signals your time is valuable โ€” and better not wasted. And, it offers a more relaxing way to keep time than the incessant pings from your calendar and phone.

Earlier this year, Morgan Stanley and Luxe Consultโ€™s annual Swiss Water Report backed up what weโ€™ve sensed as a vibe shift within this once purely practical accessories category. The report showed growth in the luxury watch market, with increasing investment from women and Gen Z. Vogue Business noted items like the Omega x Swatch MoonSwatch had become a must-have accessory for Gen Z.

Meanwhile, the rise of the jewellery watch has been hard to miss. Just look at the Omega De Ville Prestige with its diamond-paved bezel and white mother-of-pearl dial or the Mini Trรฉsor, featuring elegantly curved diamond detailing, a silky gold polish and red ceramic flower dial (thatโ€™s โ€œthe crownโ€ in horology terminology). These practical items now double as pieces of fine jewellery.

A timepiece is the perfect luxury accessory to mark a significant milestone and moment in time. This is why watches have long been gifts for special events โ€” birthdays, anniversaries, graduations and promotions. Theyโ€™re a special gift to another, or to yourself, and is an item well worth investing in.

But, if the terminology above has left you nonplussed, youโ€™re not alone (we looked it up).

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The horological world has long been geared towards men, with campaigns characterised by technical machismo and specialist terminology that can feel impenetrable.

Given most of us will purchase a luxury timepiece once, being equipped with the right language and knowledge will make the journey to watch ownership far more enjoyable.

Nicole Kidman wearing a Omega watch at the Olympic Games
(Credit: Omega) Nicole Kidman wearing a luxury Omega watch at the Olympic games

What To Look For When Buying A Luxury Watch

Unlike bracelets, watches are technical and ornamental objects. When investing in a future heirloom, you want to make sure it keeps time for life.

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โ€œQuality of craftsmanship is the key thing youโ€™re looking for,โ€ says Raynald Aeschlimann, CEO of Omega. One way to gauge quality? Look for a strong warranty. โ€œOne revealing way to understand that quality is to check if the watch has a long guarantee. Omega, for example, offers a five-year guarantee on all watches, which is longer than many other watchmakers because we truly stand by our standard of reliability,โ€ says Aeschlimann.

Next, consider the materials. Aeschlimann advises that the finest standards for luxury watches are 18k gold and 316L stainless steel, known for their lustre and corrosion resistance. โ€œOther rare materials, such as diamonds, meteorite, or platinum, will add genuine value,โ€ he explains.

Now, letโ€™s unpack some key horological terminology to take with you on your shopping journey.

5 Pieces Of Horology Terminology To Know:

Horology is a storied profession that blends science, engineering, and art. Horological experts โ€”watchmakers, restorers, conservators, and collectorsโ€”specialise in the delicate craft of keeping time and, like most specialist professions, have their own language. Here are five essential terms to understand when shopping for a timepiece that youโ€™ll hope to wear for a lifetime..

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The Bezel:

The bezel is the ring surrounding the face of the watch. In luxury watches, it may be adorned with diamonds or other decorative detailing. Alternatively, it might have practical functions, like a tachymeter scale โ€” a numbered feature that measures speed over a fixed period. This could be how long it takes to cover a kilometre while running or driving or how long a diver has spent underwater.

The Dial:

The dial is the face of the watch, the surface where the hands rotate against the hour markers. Dials come in various colours and materials, from gold to mother-of-pearl.

Self-Winding Or Manual-Winding:

This term refers to whether the watch winds automatically or manually. A self-winding watch uses the wearerโ€™s wrist movements to power its mechanism, while a manual watch requires daily winding via the crown to keep it running smoothly.

The Crown:

The crown is the button on the side of the watch used to manipulate its dials and set the time.

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Complication:

A โ€œcomplicationโ€ is a slightly misleading term in watchmaking. It actually refers to the additional functions beyond simple timekeeping a watch might have. These can include a display date, calendar, moonphase, or power reserve indicator.

Moonphase:

A moonphase is a feature that tracks the moonโ€™s phases through a small aperture in the dial. As the moon waxes and wanes, the display changes accordingly. This beautifully intricate function is most commonly found in luxury timepieces.

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