The ’90s was a historic decade in the world of fashion. It was an era where styles such as minimalism, avant-garde and grunge surfaced, and Kate Moss, Naomi Campbell, Linda Evangelista, Christy Turlington and Cindy Crawford all gained supermodel status.
Fashion icons John Galliano, Stella McCartney and Tom Ford all took over major French fashion houses (Dior, Chloé, Gucci and Saint Laurent respectively), while Alexander McQueen made his mark in the industry.
Most importantly, the ’90s was the decade that fashion shows became more accessible to the general public, and presentations weren’t limited to those who were in the industry. So, with the integration of televised runways, designers made their creations more intricate and extravagant than ever before.
From Yves Saint Laurent’s naked flower haute couture wedding dress to Alexander McQueen’s spray-painting robots, we chart the most unforgettable ’90s runway moments.
VERSACE AUTUMN WINTER 1991
The spring-summer ’18 Versace show wasn’t the first to star ’90s supermodels walking to George Michael’s song ‘Freedom! ’90’. Gianni Versace’s 1991 show brought all of the It-girls to the runway and sent Linda Evangelista, Cindy Crawford, Naomi Campbell, and Christy Turlington arm in arm down the runway, lip-synching to the famous lyrics. It was an instant sensation.
JEAN-PAUL GAULTIER 1992
Jean-Paul Gaultier’s creations have been never been conservative. In 1992, he staged his first runway show in the US at a fundraising event for AmFAR. Madonna made an appearance on the runway, wearing a jumpsuit that bared her whole chest, stunning the audience and the entertainment industry shortly after.
JOHN GALLIANO SPRING 1992
John Galliano debuted his eponymous label at the end of the ’80s and made a name for himself in the early ’90s. His 1992 spring runway saw romantic silhouettes and bias-cut dresses, which were worn by supermodels such as Kate Moss and Helena Christensen.
VERSACE AUTUMN WINTER 1992
Gianni Versace’s autumn winter 1992 collection was provocatively titled ‘Miss S&M’ and saw some outrage from critics. “I don’t want women to be sex objects or any of that,” Suzy Menkes said post show. The runway was where Versace’s fantasies came to life, and fetishistic elements were worked into glamorous clothing. His looks were high maintenance and models often required many helping hands to get dressed.
THIERRY MUGLER SPRING 1992
Thierry Mugler is known for his over-the-top approach to fashion, but it was his spring 1992 show that caught everyone off-guard. The collection proved to be more about contraptions than clothing, whereby his creations were designed using sharp edges, leather and embellishment. The edgy collection also featured a bodice that was made to look like a motorcycle, which included side mirrors and handles.
VIVIENNE WESTWOOD AUTUMN WINTER 1993
Vivienne Westwood is well known for pushing the boundaries in fashion, and throughout the ’90s she played with Anglomania and historical costumes by creating exaggerated and extreme silhouettes. In ’93, Naomi Campbell famously took a tumble at the expense of Westwood’s extravagant high heels. Not even supermodels can handle the height sometimes.
CHANEL SPRING-SUMMER 1994
Karl Lagerfeld has always been an innovator, and in ’94 he took to the streets for inspiration. The spring show saw models wearing oversized rapper’s chains and baggy boy shorts that were held up by suspenders. Some models also skated down the runway in a pair of popular ’90s skates that were covered in Chanel’s logo, of course.
COMME DES GARÇONS SPRING 1997
Rei Kawakubo has never been afraid to be different, and in her spring 1997 collection titled ‘Body Meets Dress, Dress Meets Body’, she did just that. The show, which was often referred to as “lumps and bumps”, featured tube gingham dresses that were stuffed with lumpen filler. Some said her creations were deformed, however, she insisted on taking risks and creating new silhouettes.
CHLOÉ SPRING SUMMER 1998
This show was Stella McCartney’s first for the French fashion house. The designer made headlines for hiring her supermodel friends Kate Moss and Naomi Campbell, and for having her musician father, Sir Paul McCartney, in the front row.
This come just three years after she hired the two supermodels for her Central St Martins degree show, a move she now regrets. “I look back on that moment and just feel a bit embarrassed that I was so naïve,” McCartney said in an interview with the BBC.
ALEXANDER MCQUEEN SPRING 1999
Alexander McQueen’s spring 1999 show is arguably one of the most iconic fashion show finale’s of all time. The show ended with model Shalom Harlow on a rotating platform, in a strapless dress that was cinched across the bust with a leather belt. Robots, which were typically used to paint cars, then shot paint at her dress, which resulted in the finished design. It was a complete work of art.
YVES SAINT LAURENT HAUTE COUTURE 1999
Although Tom Ford had taken over designing Yves Saint Laurent’s ready-to-wear line earlier that year, Saint Laurent himself was still crafting the designs for the label’s haute couture collections. That’s where he debuted this floral wedding dress, slightly unconventional don’t you think?
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