When you mention Sweden, most people think of Ikea, ABBA, Volvos, Vikings and Alexander Sarsgard (or is the latter just me?). But this mythical, magical country, flanked by Finland and Norway, has produced some of the world’s most crucial cultural signposts, from dark fairytales and epic folkloric novels to clean Scandi design and the catchiest pop tunes in history. What people also might not know is that Sweden pioneered the concept of female empowerment.
Women Vikings often fought alongside the men, 17th century leader Queen Christina became a feminist icon for her progressive views, and Swedish writer Selma Lagerlof was the first woman to win a Nobel Prize.
Today, Sweden continues its feminist tradition by topping the Global Gender Equality ranking, meaning it’s officially the best place in the world for women in terms of pay parity, health benefits and leadership opportunities.
It’s no coincidence then that Max Mara – a powerhouse fashion brand known for its empowerment messaging by creating “real clothes for real women” – selected Sweden’s capital as the location for its exquisite Resort 24 collection.
“I’ve always been fascinated by Selma, her folkloric writings and the way she pushed for social change for women,” Creative Director Ian Griffiths tells marie claire the morning of the show. “Selma – and Sweden – are the inspiration for this collection. She was ahead of her time but also dipped into the past to retell stories of classical myths and fairy tales with a contemporary lens. Selma, Queen Christina and so many others forged their own paths to gain great success, and that marries perfectly with our ethos.”
Set against the backdrop of the majestic Blue Hall (the site of the annual Nobel Prize Banquet), the collection showcased the perfect blend of sensible silhouettes with playful folksy touches and floral, midsummer softness. Tailored looks are loosened by gigot sleeves, ankle-grazing skirts and elbow-length capes.
Billowing tunics with black and ivory braids, pom poms and tassels further lean into this folksy reference, while floaty dresses and separates are given a contemporary edge with white collars and cuffs for a hint of city smartness.
The title of the collection is Septum Flores – the seven types of wild flowers grown in June – hence why half the runway resembled a midsummer meadow, with dreamy frocks and big boots sprinkled with sprigs in paintbox colours.
Known for its strong tailoring, classic coats (the iconic Teddy Bear celebrates a decade this year) and utilitarian separates, Max Mara’s Resort heralds a new direction for the brand.
“It’s definitely more playful than past collections,” says Griffiths. “I wanted to do something different, but there’s also plenty for the core Max Mara consumer. And while it’s playful, there’s an unease there. After all, the Swedish fairytales can be brutal – kids end up being baked in pies! There’s definitely a darkness that I wanted to lean into.”
Also in Sweden to view the collection were a crop of A-listers devoted to Max Mara’s timeless aesthetic, including Lily Collins, Amy Adams, Demi Moore and Kiernan Shipka.
“The embroidery’s exquisite and I want a few of the floral pieces in my wardrobe,” enthuses Amy Adams right after the show.
But the real stars were the 25 powerhouse women who also sat front row, including Swedish leaders, politicians, entrepreneurs, businesswomen, scientists and artists.
“We wanted to be true to the brand by inviting these women to honour them for their incredible work,” says retail director and brand ambassador Maria Giulia Prezioso Maramotti Germanetti, who calls Resort 24 one of her favourite collections. “I’m so proud to see all these amazing women being celebrated in this way. It feels right.”
Max Mara’s Resort 24 collection will be available in store in November.
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