To unveil Hermè’s autumn/winter 2024 collection, designer Nadège Vanhée transported showgoers to a busy Parisienne street. Lit by fluorescent streetlights and a smattering of rainfall, this moody runway set the scene for Vanhée’s vision of an edgy new breed of femininity, aptly titled ‘The Rider.’
“She’s late but she doesn’t rush. She smiles at the rain. She has long been at home on streets like this one…Between archetypes, between masculine and feminine, with versatility, solidity, and attention to detail her companions.” the show notes described.
Of course, the modern Hermès woman dresses with chic comfort and sleek utility in mind. It figures: biker jackets, robust twill, supple cashmere and plenty of leather reigned supreme on the runway. And in keeping with the wet-weather theme, each of the pieces were designed to withstand the elements, with the House’s usual luxury cowhides treated to be water-resilient.
The beauty look emanated a similar quiet confidence: models’ hair was slicked back effortlessly, and their skin was dewy, as though it had been dampened by a smattering of rain.
Footwear followed suit, with models’ storming the runway in a mix of flat knee-high biker boots and low-heeled cowboy boots – each made for stomping in puddles, mounting a horse, or zipping into the distance atop a motorcycle.
The colour palette was equally bold, with earthy browns and inky blacks punctuated with the occasional pop of rich red.