With recent collections honouring Joséphine Baker, and Catherine De Medici, Dior Creative Director Maria Grazia Chiuri has once again found inspiration in the history books, with the artist, Frida Khalo at the heart of the maison’s latest show.
Held within the grounds of the Antiguo Colegio de San Ildefonso in Mexico City, where the iconic Mexican painter studied and met her mentor and lover Diego Rivera, the Resort 2024 collection was yet another display of Chiuri’s devotion to spotlighting female artists, trailblazers and artisans across the globe.
As a storm set the dramatic tone for the show, the collection saw models take to the alfresco setting, with Alicia Keys, Riley Keough, Naomi Watts, Emma Raducanu and Lena Mahtouf in the front row.
The looks featured a harmonious blend of the androgynous and feminine, embodying Khalo’s art and personal style, from boned bodices, to skirts and dresses adorned in embroidered hearts, birds, butterflies, and flowers. Tailored suits, full skirts paired with oversized shirts, colourful sundresses and white cotton dresses paired with blood-red boots helmed the collection, as delicate silhouettes of often appeared adorned on clothing, a motif based on a sketch by Andrée Brossin de Méré from the Dior archives. A pink dress reminiscent of the one worn by Frida Kahlo in one of her self-portraits was also featured in the collection.
Chiuri looked at photographs of Frida Kahlo, taking note of how the legendary Mexican artist defied the rules of gender boundaries. At the age of 19, Frida famously wore a men’s three-piece suit, transgressing her femininity to claim an independence above all intellectuals.
The Creative Director, who has cited Khalo as one of her biggest inspirations, incorporated the work of several local artisans. Mexican artist Elina Chauvet collaborated on the designs; Hilan Cruz Cruz, co-founder of the Yolcentle Textile Workshop, worked on embroideries that appeared on the garments; music was by Mexican singer Vivir Quintana; while many more local jewellers, embroiderers, and weavers helped bring the vision to life.
Hair and beauty also stayed true to Frida’s heritage, with hairstylist Guido Palau’s braids (connected behind the head, with a moth decoration) mimicking a visual pulled from Diego Rivera’s iconic Calla Lily Vendor. Natural beauty was favoured, with Dior Beauty creative director Peter Philips focusing on dewy, luminous skin and emboldened brows (of course), and a rosy-tinted lip.
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