In the early 2010s, the athleisure sector increased dramatically thanks to the prevalence of Yeezy inspired lycra bike shorts and cropped tops.
However, with our penchant for tracksuits and oversized sweaters reignited since the pandemic it makes sense that the latest trend to come out of 2022 is a pseudo-athletic style: balletcore.
Balletcore is naturally the next step in the activewear evolution, depaturing from tight lycra and nylon in favour for soft-as-butter cotton and cashmere. Rather than activewear for aesthetics, it’s for function—utilitarian and practical in nature.
On social media alone, balletcore is flooding our feeds. Pinterest reports that the search volume for this aesthetic has increased 1566%, with the hashtag #balletcore boasting over six million views on TikTok.
When we first think of the rise of balletcore, Miu Miu’s Fall/Winter 2022 show springs to mind.
Archetypal silhouettes of ballet, like thick ribbed socks, chiffon accessories and satin briefs in baby blues and ballerina pinks that peeked out from the top of a low-slung skirt.
The collection’s pièce de résistance? The maison’s use of ballet slippers as ready-to-wear footwear.
Ballet flats are a key staple in the balletcore wardrobe and have recently made a comeback on the international runways and mainstream.
While many designers have been embracing the resurgence, including London’s Molly Goddard and our very own Zimmermann, the style is seeping into the celebrity style set with the likes of Alexa Chung and Paloma Elsesser spotted wearing the timeless classic.
Harry Styles is even making a case that the ballet flat is the perfect genderless option by wearing the androgynous style on the cover of his upcoming album.
The most prolific designer who has been pioneering balletcore is Irish-designer Simone Rocha. Renowned for her romantic sensibilities and ultra feminine silhouettes with edgy and slightly gothic undertone.
For Rocha’s FW/22 presentation, her contemporary take on Victorian era dressing took inspiration from Irish Folklore, specifically a fabel where princesses are turned into swans by a ruinous stepmother.
If you think this premise sounds similar to a prominent ballet, you’d be correct. Rocha’s employment of Swan embroidery is just another signal that balletcore will reign supreme this year.
And that’s easy to see why.
Post-pandemic dressing has seen the rise in body-conscious silhouettes, a ‘youthquake’ of new sexiness where midriffs are laid bare.
However, after a year of forgoing our oversized, minimalist attire and slouchy tracksuits, we’re coming full circle by returning to the ease and elegance this athleisure-adjacent trend provides.
UK based creative agency The Digi Fairy actually predicted this trend back in 2021. They attribute the rise of the microtrend to a variety of reasons, including the Black Swan nostalgia seen in Rocha’s show.
They also point out that Miu Miu isn’t the first to dub pointe shoes as practical footwear, with magazine editor Diane Vreeland pioneering this trend back in the wartime era.
While you may think that the rise of balletcore will have everyone looking like they’ve just stepped out of barre class, we think subliminal and sartorial styling of key tropes will lend themselves perfectly to a transeasonal wardrobe.
The structure to a ballet-inspired wardrobe are several key basics including a wrap top, thick socks, leotards, vintage inspired lingerie and tulle tutu in a greyscale and nude colour palette with accents of pastels.
For marie claire’s edit of the best ballet inspired pieces to shop, keep scrolling below.
Daisy Faille Long Pointed Collar Shirt Dress, $1046 at Simone Rocha
Annabelle Pumps, $668 at Molly Goddard
Jocelyn Linen Ramie Smock Dress, $400.00 at Joslin
Khaite Puff-sleeve Peplum Blouse, $1,791 at Farfetch
Jacquemus Le Bandeau Valensole Knit Bralette, $225 at MyTheresa
Khaite Off-White Shelly Tank Top, $570 at SSENSE
Ballerina Wrap Skirt, $499.13 at Orseund Iris
Little Rosie Set, $350 at Caitlin Crisp
Dancer Halter Top, $395 at Zimmermann
TOTÊME Cork Stretch-jersey Leggings, $277.64 at NET-A-PORTER
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