Paris Hilton, Naomi Campbell and Kate Moss…oh my!
It’s almost as if every member of the highly-exclusive celebrity style set descended on Italy this week for the über stylish Milan Fashion Week.
And if the countless content from the front row bombarding your social media feeds wasn’t enough to convince you to book your ticket for 2023, then the new season collections from our favourite emerging and established Italian houses are surely enough to prove that Milan is the place to be.
Indeed, the Milano Moda Donna (Milanese women’s fashion), was a feast for the eyes.
Gucci had us seeing double with their ‘horrific’ (thanks to the omnipresent Gremlin motif) take on twin dressing for their ‘Twinsburg’ show that paid homage to the relationship the house’s creative director Alessandro Michelle had with his own mother and aunt, who were twin siblings.
Sorry to the original fashion twins, Mary Kate and Ashley, but Gucci is proving it’s so nice it must be seen twice.
Across town at Ferragamo, freshly-minted member of the illustrious fashion set Maximilian, ushered in a new era for the luxury heritage label.
Staying true to the brand’s roots, the updated crimson hue provided the literal framework for both the collection and the presentation, while the house’s codes were reconceptualised with Maximilian’s silhouettes.
Skin is truly what this young, emerging designer does best, configuring the clothing in ways that either expertly conceal or reveal the human form.
Elsewhere, at Versace, Donatella gave us her prediction for what the upcoming nuptials of goth-rock icons Megan Fox and Machine Gun Kelly would look like, with her interpretation of a vampy albeit romantic wedding. Her proverbial bride? The newly-wed Paris Hilton. That’s hot.
And that’s not to mention that countless supermodels who surprised and delighted members of the style set with either their return to the runway à la Kate Moss at Bottega Veneta, or how effortlessly they displayed their prowess on the catwalk like Naomi Campbell and Carla Bruni.
Below, marie claire Australia’s round up of the best moments from the Spring/Summer 2023 season of Milan Fashion Week.
Diesel Welcomed A New Season Of Daring Denim
Belgian darlin Glenn Martins has a penchant for headline making designs that not only push boundaries, but neglect and destroy them all together.
Martins’ third runway show for the denim label was not only the hottest ticket to have this week, but it was also the biggest show—and no, we’re not talking about the erotically erected inflatable structure that the brand is claiming to be certified by the Guinness World Record as the biggest ever in history.
Of course, with tickets available to a select 3,000 members of the public, it was almost as if half of Milan had showed up in person to see what Martins had envisioned for the brand. The result? Sexy designs that turned every preconceived notion of denim on its head. In denim we trust.
Fendi Fiercely Brought 90s New York Dressing To The Forefront
A week after Fendi shut down NYFW with their celeb-studded baguette themed collection, the luxury maison backed it up with a minimalistic collection that took cues from the street style of 90s minimalist icons.
Looking to the likes of Carole Basset Kennedy and Carrie Bradshaw, this high-octane collection featured a soft approach to layering with sheer tops paired over silk trousers and satin slips paired under embroidered nearly-naked dresses.
Our favourite from the collection? The chunky, log sole style platform slides, sneakers and boots in candy coloured neon greens, cerulean blue and millennial pink. These platform wedges will appeal to the go-go boot lovers amongst us.
Tod’s Took A Luxe Leather Approach To Ballet Core
It’s clear that the athleisure adjacent trend, ballet core, has found its way to Milan, thanks to Tod’s creative director Walter Chiapponi.
Also taking cues from the timeless minimalist aesthetic of the 90s, Tod’s made a case for ballet flats to be our new go-to workwear shoe by pairing the dainty footwear style with loose, tailored trousers, two-toned button downs and long sleeve leather midi dresses.
The sportif style was offset by the more corporate styling of the collection, but this collection’s ethos is clear: wardrobe staples are the ultimate form of luxury.
Max Mara’s Balmy Resort Collection Took Us To The South Of France
If you were inspired to grab yourself a spritz and rewatch season two of Emily In Paris, you know the scenes where they head to Saint-Tropez, after watching Max Mara’s show we wouldn’t blame you.
Max Mara clearly has a coastal escape front of mind, presenting a series of vintage resort-ready silhouettes inspired by the fabulous 1950s jet-setters who frequented the South of France.
Slimline shapes exalted the female body, with classic bias cut maxi dresses and raw cut two pieces proved that elegance will always be timeless.
The show’s set, marked by the endless horizon of the coast, is calling for us. All we need now is these new season pieces and we’ll be on our way.
Versace Dressed The New Era Of Supermodels As Gothic ‘Rockstar Girlfriends’
We’re wondering if Donatella Versace has a secret TikTok account, because she’s clearly been influenced by the debaucherous ‘rockstar girlfriend’ aesthetic.
This vampy collection is poised for the Y2K pop starlet who finds solace on the stage under the spotlight, with a fresh take on the moto jacket, platform boots and hooded shirts that reach below the navel.
We’re sure that Chloe and Chenelle Delgadillo, Olivia Rodrigo’s stylists, have these looks on hold for her already.
Of course, when they are modelled by the likes of Gigi, Bella, Em Rata, Vittoria, Stienberg and Irina, owning a piece of this collection doesn’t take much convincing.
Ferragamo Brought The Hollywood Hills To A Seminary On The Outskirts Of The City
Maximilian Davis, the 27-year-old London native taking the fashion world by storm, opted for a a former Archbishop’s Seminary (and now converted hotel) for his debut collection for Ferragamo. An apt location for this presentation, which infused old-school silhouettes and tradition with modern references.
The brand announced a slight makeover ahead of the collection, issuing a new name, a new logo and a new colour palette for its new era. Naturally, Davis took inspiration from Ferragamo’s relationship with Hollywood, the land of countless reinvention and reinvigoration.
If Ferragamo wasn’t on your radar already, then it certainly will be now thanks to Davis’ midas touch. Safe to say, this brand is sexy, sophisticated and its legacy cemented.
Prada Found Beauty In Structure And Effortless Sophistication
For Prada, there is something innately beautiful by their constant devotion to simple, well constructed creations.
Miuccia Prada and Raf Simons are happy not to reinvent the wheel, they’ll leave it to this avant-garde new wave of designers, but rather continue to push out effortlessly elegant collections that will become must haves for season to come.
Take for instance this season’s collections of slip dresses presented in both a black silk and ivory mesh. Or soft knitted turtlenecks, miniskirts or coats that explore both the strength and fragility of the female form.
Or the classic crisp button down, that when reinvented as a onesie allows for a sense of youthfulness and frivolity that functional fashion is seemingly lacking these days.
We’ll take one of everything, please.
Gucci’s Family Affair Had You Seeing Double
It was the dupe of the century.
At Gucci’s show, guests watched on as models showcased Michele’s upper-echelon and equestrian inspired collection, but as the show came to its climax, the perpendicular wall of the show rose to reveal that they were only watching one half of the show.
On the other side of the room, a duplicate show was simultaneously taking place, with twin models walking side by side. The show cultivated the twin models walking arm in arm in their matching creations. A family affair indeed.
Bottega Veneta Proved That Matthieu Blazy Is A Tour De Force
Another emerging designer to take Milan by storm is Bottega Veneta’s creative director Matthieu Blazy.
For his sophomore collection, Blazy cemented Bottega’s status as the go-to luxury leather fashion house, an league of its own in innovation and art-lead design. After all, who else can say they made a leather tartan flannel covetable?
Here, Blazy explores the different facets and styles of the Bottega man or woman, whether it be down to earth casual chic or effortless on-the-go realness. Both sophisticated and maximalist outerwear plays with minimalist, simplistic suiting to create a tension and dichotomy that resolves itself through high-octane splashes of colour and texture.
Of course, with Kate Moss returning to the runway for this presentation, this is one you didn’t want to miss.
Giorgio Armani Infuses Elegant Eveningwear With Ease
What’s a night in Milan without a soirée from Giorgio Armani? Over 56 looks, the 88-year-old designer proved exactly why he is the patriarch of luxurious eveningwear, with a collection of sheer and silk two pieces and dresses that reinvented what we expect from the famed house. Sensual dressing is clearly front of mind in Milan, with the Armani woman swashed in chromatic silvers and midnight blues that are perfect for the dance floor. Strategic hints of sequin embroidery and metallic textures evoke a sense of nostalgia for the 1970s, but we think this collection is future-proof.
Sportmax Rejected Conformity And Embraces Chaos On The Runway
Sportmax is continuing to go from strength to strength. After debuting their Zendaya-approved collection last season, we weren’t sure how the brand would top their youthful collection. But it’s clear after watching this show the first thing they did was throw out the rule book altogether and embrace the one thing that designers are scared to touch: chaos.
High-octane prints and colours collided in a cacophony of sounds and colour for a collection that can only be described as a psychedelic. With Y2K inspired silhouettes and 70s prints, this collection is proof that the ‘weird girl’ aesthetic is here to stay.
Boss Delivered Big Boss Energy On The Runway With A Fast-Paced Take On Classic Styles
In Milan, Boss certainly lived up to their name with this powerful collection that exacted the tailored trend.
Boss is making a case for the return of sophisticated suit, seen on the runway in midnight hues, charcoal greys and pewter metallic that bring a tough edge to this timeless silhouette.
Boss was also clearly inspired by the recent motorcycle trend, but rather than reinventing the classic leather jacket, they sartorially infused codes of menswear like trenches and blazers with leather detailing.
In saying that, the chrome moto jacket is definitely on our wish list.
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