While this year has offered endless negatives, the start of fashion week is surely a sight for sore eyes.
And with the Spring/Summer 2021 shows officially kicking off in New York this week, the shows may look and feel different but the lack of in-person events hasn’t dampened any style spirit, whether it be through street style or accessory moments.
Each designer has pulled through with just as many jaw-dropping and show-stopping looks as ever before.
From pastel colourways and bold prints to Bohemian silhouettes, we’ve broken down the most impressive looks from NYFW Spring/Summer 2021 that have stopped us in our tracks.
Ulla Johnson
Ulla Johnson’s Spring/Summer ’21 show saw a new, modern bohemian style emerge. From colourful crochet dresses and earthy patterns to bold colour blocking in dreamy silhouettes, this collection is sure to keep you dreaming of a pool side moment somewhere far, far away.
Rodarte
Without a runway on hand, Rodarte shot its collection in front of the dramatic Southern California landscape—and the designers’ hometown. The spring/summer ’21 collection offered period drama scenery while the blue and pink floral prints and oversized collars, in all their kitschy glory, reigned supreme.
Jason Wu
Inspired by his beachy getaway to Tulum, Jason Wu’s Spring/Summer ’21 collection ironically focused on the notion of the humble vacation, since holidays aren’t in our immediate future. Built around new beginnings, hope, and cultivating a sense of unapologetic escapism, Jason Wu’s collection saw swimwear and ready-to-wear mix. Flowy dresses in bright, bold patterns, layered bra tops, a new take on stripes and tailored bermuda shorts were all to be seen in this collection.
Tom Ford
Like many other designers this season, Tom Ford’s Spring/Summer ’21 collection inspired a sense of escapism, through his use of bright jewel tones and silhouettes that felt relaxed yet elevated. The collection emulated a ’70s feel with aviators and silk neck scarves speckled throughout.
Anna Sui
Exploring the “new now” for her Spring/Summer ’21 collection, her focus was clear from top to bottom. From refined versions of the ‘nap dress’ to knee-length shorts and roomy trousers, the collection is perfect for those still balancing chic style and a work-from-home wardrobe. Its Bohemian aesthetic focuses on comfort, but with summer features that we know and love, from crochet frocks to paper-thin pleats.
Christian Siriano
In a season that featured seemingly endless amounts of bold and busy prints and Bohemian silhouettes, Christian Siriano’s collection was entirely the opposite. Filled with voluminous shapes and political statements, the collection saw pronounced shoulders and suits in playful patterns—plus matching masks. Both traditionally glamorous and filled with fantasy, the collection also featured an abundance of flamenco ruffles and winged sleeves.
Zimmermann
Named “Wild Botanica” after the native flora and fauna of Australia, the collection featured bold floral and bird prints on ruffled tops and maxi dresses. With playful 3D flower appliqués, long crochet pencil skirts and laser-cut lace crop tops with butterfly embroidery were the cream of the crop. Again, this season saw the rise of the Bermuda short, loosely cut linen trousers, and cotton button-downs for some much-needed minimalism to a vibrant lineup.
Halpern
Formed around the much-needed joy, fantasy and escapism that the world needs, Halpern’s latest collection sits suspended somewhere between the 1930s and ’70s. From the louche pajamas, housecoats with trains, and ladylike tweed suits with hints of jacquard, the bespoke collection honours couture-like silhouettes, modelled on ‘heroines’—from a train operator and a hospital cleaner to a nurse and an OBGYN—whose looks were made specifically for them.
Simone Rocha
Simone Rocha’s whimsical collection was a minimalist lovers dream. Rounded volumes, contrasts between gilded brocades and plain canvas, the scalloped-edge cottons, and the gauzy layers—the collection is nothing short of magical. Stripped back to black, white and cream tones, the collection’s voluminous silhouettes and intricated embroidery speaks volumes.
Richard Malone
Having designed pieces to eliminate the lack of PPE for the U.K.’s hospital workers, Malone was inspired by the process of putting together scrubs for otherwise unprotected doctors and nurses. Influenced by the opportunity to rifle through dead stock materials, utilise hand-dying processes, and create wrinkle effects, this collection is a repercussion of his lockdown experiences and it couldn’t be more visually stunning. With earthy tones and natural fabrics, simple fabrications in elevated constructions methods reigned supreme.
Duro Olowu
Drawing on the work of Emma Amos, the acclaimed African American painter, Olowu’s pieces focus on her poetic use of colour and striking hand-painted striped prints that weave their way through the collection. Featuring the particularly flattering effect on an elongated tunic over wide-leg pants, the collection is a chic take on lounge wear, that we’d happily wear daily.
Coach
While not its usual runway spectacle, Coach looked to a new way of presenting its spring/summer 2021 collection. Creative director Stuart Vevers looked to members of the Coach family to create the Coach Forever collection, a mix of past, present and future designs in a virtual presentation made in collaboration with Juergen Teller.
“With Coach Forever, I wanted to find new ways of doing things,” said Vevers. “It was important to me to challenge how we create our collections, and consider their impact on our communities and the planet. I’m excited to keep exploring that through designing and learning, and to have brought this to life with Juergen and our Coach Family.”
Models included Megan Thee Stallion, Kaia Gerber, Kate Moss and Xiao Wen.
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