The way we do our eye makeup can make or break an entire beauty look.
Choice of eyeshadow shades, placement of eyeliner and even our prep steps can be the difference between eyes that look lined and small, or youthful and bright.
As the eyes are often the first place to show the signs of ageing, the techniques we learnt in our teens and 20s may not work as much as we get older.
So as your skin changes, it’s all about adapting and learning new, flattering techniques to enhance, rather than hide, your beautiful eyes.
1. Prep with an eye mask
Makeup will always apply better to smooth and hydrated skin. Under-eye masks will target the area to provide an instant plumping effect, while simultaneously soothing puffiness. Around 20 minutes before doing your makeup, pop on a pair and leave them to work their magic for 10-15 minutes. Once you peel them off, massage in any excess serum, and wait until fully absorbed before starting makeup.
2. Use an illuminating concealer
When aiming to conceal darkness, bags and lines near the eyes, a formula with light-reflecting particles is best. It will help to illuminate the eye area for a brighter appearance, bouncing light away from creases, rather than settling into wrinkles and flattening the area. Using a separate concealer to the one you use for blemishes and discolouration will also allow you to choose a shade slightly lighter, to further illuminate the eyes.
It Cosmetics Bye Bye Under Eye Illumination Anti-Aging Waterproof Concealer, $40 at sephora.com.au
Becca Under Eye Brightening Corrector, $54 at sephora.com.au
YSL Touché Eclat High Cover Pen, $70 at yslbeauty.com.au
Giorgio Armani Luminous Silk Concealer, $66 at giorgioarmanibeauty.com.au
3. Try the triangle method
Often referred to as the ‘triangle of youth’, try applying your concealer from the lower lash line to the top of the cheek in an upside down triangle shape. Don’t fill it in, just blend the outline. The idea is that it will correct darkness, while enhancing the cheekbone, for a fresher, lifted look. It’s certainly better than caking it in a semi-circle right under the eye.
4. Curl your eyelashes
Straight or droopy eyelashes can make the eye look instantly more closed off. Curling your lashes will not only open the eye back up, but will help to give the illusion of height and length once you’ve applied mascara.
5. Be strategic with eyeliner
There are a few ways to work eyeliner to your advantage, in order to gain definition without shadowing (and therefore shrinking) the eye too much.
The first is tight-lining, where eyeliner is applied extremely thinly, right along the lash line. Or in some cases, even on the upper waterline, for shape without sacrificing eyelid space.
The second is to swap black for brown or grey eyeliner to soften its effect. And the third is to keep eyeliner to the outer third of the eye only, to give the illusion of bigger eyes.
Napoleon Play Pen Eyeliner in Tiramiss-You, $35 at napoleonperdis.com
6. Create an eye lift with eyeshadow
When it comes to eyeshadow, a good rule of thumb is to use the lightest shade in your look all over the lid, the darkest in the crease only and (if using) your medium or focal colour in the centre. This will draw the eye shape upwards, by opening the inner corner and extending the outer.
7. Don’t underestimate a little eye-lighting
Highlighter is as much for the eyes as it is for your cheekbones. Adding a smidge to the inner corner of each eye, and along the brow bone, will further enhance any eye-lifting and brightening you’re trying to achieve.
8. Fill in your brows
Even if you haven’t got much to work with, filling in your brows will make a big difference. The extra definition will draw the eye upwards (again, to add lift), completing your youthful eye look.
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