Sarah Burton, a visionary, has shown her last collection as creative director at Alexander McQueen, and she gave it her all.
Burton has been at McQueen since her time studying at Central Saint Martins, joining in 1997 and rising to head of womenswear. As Lee McQueen’s right-hand-woman, she was the natural choice to take over the label after his passing in 2010.
The London-based designer has shown a real ability to show collections that are entirely her own but that simultaneously honour the late designer, whose name is forever immortalised in the iconic label.
Showing her final collection at Paris Fashion Week, Burton wore her usual uniform — a relaxed-fit jean and button up shirt — the understated and notoriously private designer is not one to don the drama and fierceness that lives in the apparel she shows.
In fact, Burton is known for her disinterest in the celebrity that comes with leading a fashion house of this stature. We will never forget Burton continually denying that she was asked to make Kate Middleton’s wedding dress, only for her to be broadcast on national television helping Kate set her nine-feet-long train in place as she prepared to walk down the aisle on her wedding day.
On the topic of Middleton, the British royal has been a steadfast supporter of Burton’s work for McQueen, even wearing her designs for King Charles III’s coronation (in a matching dress with her daughter, Princess Charlotte).
While there was no sighting of Middleton in the crowd, the McQueen show was a hotly anticipated ticket that saw celebrities the likes of Cate Blanchett, Yara Shahidi and Elle Fanning turning out to support Burton’s final lap.
And she did not disappoint.
Opening the show with Kaia Gerber in a sharply tailored blazer dress with artful cut outs and ending with Naomi Campbell in a shimmering silver creation that almost resembled ‘armour’, the collection was a tribute to women’s bodies (and Burton’s talent perfectly tailoring to them), but also to Lee McQueen, and his trademark colourways (and roses, of course).
Naomi Campbell shed a tear as she strutted down the runway, a startlingly emotional moment that was echoed in the crowd as they bid farewell to Burton’s immensely successful era at the helm of McQueen.
Her show notes were detailed, clear and purposeful. Burton had something to say with this collection and she went to every effort to execute it perfectly.
“This collection is inspired by female anatomy, Queen Elizabeth I, the blood red rose, and Magdalena Abakanowicz, a transgressive and powerfully creative artist who refused to ever compromise her vision. This show is dedicated to the memory Lee Alexander McQueen, whose wish was always to empower women, and to the passion, talent, and loyalty of my team.”
Naturally, when the show closed — to David Bowie’s ‘Heroes’ no less — Burton walked the runway to a standing ovation.
What is next for McQueen remains to be seen, as does what role Burton will chose next. In the meantime, we’ll simply be soaking up this moment, which is sure to go down in fashion history books.
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